A GUIDE TO ORDER A TAILORMADE ELIOSSUB SUIT.
By Sebastian /Sweden info @ webvideo.com Owner of seven E-suits
1. Ask yourself what you will use the suit for. Competition? Training? Pool? Outdoor? Depth? Can you afford two suits? Can you afford changing suit every two years? Do you easily get cold?
2. Choose type of NEOPRENE.
Neoprene are made by different manufacturers (Heiwa, Yamamoto, Freedown) the they all have slightly different qualities. Heiwa is said to be more durable. Yamamoto more stretchable. Freedown is very smooth but only come with opencell inside.
3. Choose QUALITY OF NEOPRENE. ECOLINE is somewhat cheaper. NEOFLEX professional is somewhat better and slightly more expensive.
4. Choose DENSITY of neoprene. Light, medium or heavy density. The more density the more durable but less flexibility. Heavy density also does not get as much compressed in the deep. (Hint: It is said among freedivers that there is very little buoyancy change even in medium density. HD suits are actually for divers staying at depth for long periods).
5. Choose THICKNESS of suit. The thicker the warmer. The thinner the more flexible. Do not worry about getting to warm If If so, just let water enter the suit. A thicker suit will change more in buoyancy at depth compared to a thin suit.
6. OUTSIDE LINING If you freedive outdoor for recreation/training you need to protect the neophren from cliffs. You need a outside lining like nylon. With smoothskin open cell you will glide more (competition) but it gets thorn more easily.
7. INSIDE LINING or COATING. Without lining (open cell) the suit will stick to your body (therefore enhance warmness) and be more flexible, BUT you will need lubrication (soap) to get into it. To avoid this you can choose a coating. A coating will make it slide more easily onto your body but you will lose the advantages of open cell. If you need more durability then choose an inner lining. Coating is NOT a lining it can not be sewn in therefore will not make the suit stronger but it is more easier to get into in comparison to open cell. Most coatings are made to reflect heat.
- A common solution for freedivers is Heiwa medium density with an inner coating. If competing choose smoothskin on the outside, if training in "wear and tear" environment choose an outer lining.
- You cannot combine a stretchy inner lining with a more rigid outer lining and vice versa.
- Do not try to buy one suit that will do two things for you.
- Jacket and trousers does not have to be same linings and thicknesses.
- You can buy an extra jacket that is thicker for winter freediving.
- High waist gives your more breathing, and if you have too pee you dont have to take the whole jacket of.
- Long John gives more neoprene over the essential torso that has to be warm (colder countries) but a thinner "extra suit" (2mm tight vest) is said to be more effective solution.
- It will take some e-mail correspondance to finish of your order since Eliossub is very keen on details. Do express yourself as clearly/simple as possible since their english is not perfect.
FACTS ABOUT ELIOSSUB MATERIALS:
Yamamoto 45, ultra soft, ultra comfortable, but more delicate but not as much resistant to compression in the deep.
Heiwa, very elastic, warm and resistant to compression. The heiwa is an High quality rubber, always elastic, warmth and good for deep divings. (30/50mts)
Ecoline, elastic, soft and cheaper, but not as high quality.
Freedown is a new neoprene made in Smoothskin slide on the outside (fastest suit). This is the best neoprene for deep competition dives. It is the fastest suit they make. And it is even more durable than different coatings.
There is also a sandwich choice with for instance two neoprene layers on each side of nylon stretch.
The Nam Liong neoprene is an ultra-soft rubber, very very comfortable and perfect for shallow divings. (10/20mts)
COATINGS (are painted on the open cell)
Titanium (first generation)- the cheapest coating.
Gold coating (the second generation) warmer and more
resistant to wear and tear.
Black Coating (the last generation) very warm and durable but not as easy to get into as copper.Black coating smooth is another choice which slides on more easily.
Copper coating and the new Black coating, is a painting put over smoothskin (not over open cell), But it is a little less elastic and little less adherent to the body compared to open cell.
Copper coating and the new Black coating, is a painting put over smoothskin (not over open cell), so is very very easy to wear and slide into. But it is a little less elastic and little less adherent to the body.
Gold, black and copper coating are the most expensive, also because they are combined with Neoflex professional neoprene.
LINING that only goes on the inside.
Thermic plush is the classic solution, resistant, easy to wear and warm (this is the cheapest).
Thermic pile is a new lining, little less hairy, but ultra stretchy and warm (used by scubadivers and people that want an elastic but resistant suit).
Superelastic lining. A common choice. Goes well with smoothskin on the outside. The Superelastic lining is a 500% stretch nylon to use only inside.
LINING that is made for the outside.
The Superstretch lining is a 400% stretch nylon perfect to use outside.
- Lycra is a lining, used by scubadivers because it has very bright colors and also by spearfishers because it is more durable against tears and cutting (but it's little less elastic!)
- Anti-tear is a special brush-nylon that is very very resistant, used for people who work under water.
- Shark-skin is made with rubber (like smoothskin) but the surface is made with "Scales".
It's more resistant than classic smoothskin BUT less slide in the water.
- Kanoko is a fabric, more elastic than classic nylon standard, and more durable.
Used by freedivers that want a more durable suit but also a stretchable suit. This suit will last longer. Comes only with open cell or copper coating on inside.
- Smoothskin (is not a lining) the open cell has been made smoother. Delicate.
WHICH IS STRONGEST /WHICH IS MOST ELASTIC?
Grade of Elasticity:
2¡ Nylon superstretch
3¡ Kanoko elastic
4¡ Nylon elastic
5¡ Nylon standard
Grade of durability:
1¡ Kanoko elastic
2¡ Nylon superstretch
3¡ Nylon standard
4¡ Nylon elastic
Grade of warmness on the inside:
1) Open cell
2) Thermic plush
3) Thermic pile
About suits with Thermic plush inside, we have these options:
MAKE YOUR CHOICES
1. Type of neoprene (check availability here)
2. Density of neoprene
3. Ecoline or neoflex
4. Thickness of suit
5. Long Johns or high waist. Freedivers usually chose jacket with hood, otherwise water can slip in to the suit when swimming fast.
6. Inside; lining, coating or smoothcell or open cell.
7. Outside; lining (nylons) or smoothcell or sharkskin.
8. Color: Red, blue, gold, silver are some new colors. Remember that you can have a mixed design at an extra price.
Perfect guide here:
I have a feeling EliosSub likes to make tight suits. I have lately taken to adding 0.5-1 cm to all measurements, specially on a thicker more rigid suit.
-One idea is to have a suit that you can turn inside out. Smoothskin glide on one side and superstretch nylon on one side. Either side can go out. Works well - friend of mine tested it.
- Another idea is to gor for a 3mm suit and buy a 3 mm shorty for those early/late season dives. A shorty on the outside will keep you warm during warm-up.
EXAMPLE PRICES 2007
1) Poor freedivers competition suit.
Suit 5mm Smoothskin Black with Silver painting outside / Open cell inside Neoprene Heiwa in tailor made, complete of jacket closed with hood incorporated + High waist pants Price Euro 205,00
2) Cold freedivers recreation suit
Suit 5mm Superstretch Black lining outside / Superelastic lining inside
ALL SOCKS ABOUT 19.00 TO 23.00 EURO
ALL GLOVES ABOUT 19 TO 23 EURO
FREIGHT COSTS TO SWEDEN (ONE SUIT):
1) Euro 28,00 by normal post service and payment directly at post office (12 days ship)
2) Euro 34,00 by Quick Pack post and payment by bank account or Credit Card (6 days ship)
3) Euro 38,00 by EMS CAI post and payment by bank account or Credit Card (3 days ship)